Weaving Terms

A LITTLE BIT ABOUT WEAVE STRUCTURES

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TAPESTRY:

Various techniques are used to create a tightly packed weft
surfaced fabric, rug or wallhanging. Warp is set rather wide in the reed.
Warp is threaded in a straight draw (4/3,3/2,2/1,1/4) and occasionally a tabby
binder is required.

SLITS:
Weft threads meet at regular intervals and wrap around the consecutive warp threads
(next to each other). A slit is formed. Diagonals can be moved gradually to the
left or right.

INTERLOCKING OVER COMMON WARP THREADS:
Produces a feathery or saw tooth interlocking effect. Different color interlock
around a common warp thread.

INTERLOCKING OVER COMMON WEFT THREADS:
Basically the same as above but the two weft threads interlock around each other
(instead of common warp thread) and return when next shed is made.)

DOVETAILING:
Several wefts of one design run back and forth in alternating sheds. First on
one side than on the other. The same or different warp threads may be used for
the interlocking.

HATCHING:
Two weft threads run back and forth in alternating sheds. Creates feathery
lines in areas of solid color.

MOLDING AND SHAPING:
Background threads forming a triangular shape may be built up and molded with
the fingers to push the threads higher or lower in a design. Threads of contrasting
color may be used to outline and emphasize these shapes.

 

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PLAIN OR TABBY WEAVE:

Characterized by the regular interlacing of warp and weft threads
(i.e. 1/1 ratio). Basket Weave is a variation of the tabby structure only
alternating over 2 threads/under 2 threads. The fabric of this plain/tabby weave
structures is generally quite stiff. During the weaving process care need to
taken to assure a very uniform beating pattern throughout the weaving process.


TWILL STRUCTURE:

Characterized by the overlapping and staggering of the warp and weft threads. It
produces a diagonal line in the material which causes the fabric to be generally
more drapable. This type of fabric structure generally requires more weft
thread shots per inch than those required in the warp sett or spacing. This means
that if 6 epi (ends per inch) of warp are required than about 8 picks (throws of the
weft shuttle or passes) per inch of the weft will be required.

OVERSHOT WEAVES:

Characterized by a floating pattern thread and a tabby binder. It consists of a warp
of one thickness (usually finer and of one color) and two thickness of weft = one the
same as the warp (tabby or binder) and the other a thicker yarn for the floating pattern.
Is is generally a good idea to include a floating selvage when weaving in an overshot
pattern (or any other complicated pattern).

 

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